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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the present invention is a dyeing composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least (i) one or more copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or crotonic acid derivative and at least one ester monomer of vinyl, (ii) at least one silicone, the total amount of silicone (s) being at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iii) one or more pigments. It also relates to a dyeing process in which said composition is applied to the keratinous fibers, the operation being optionally followed by drying. The composition makes it possible to obtain a temporary coloration having the advantage of forming a transfer resistant deposit, leaving the individualized treated fibers with an improved cosmetic feel.
    公开号:FR3066110A1
    申请号:FR1754194
    申请日:2017-05-12
    公开日:2018-11-16
    发明作者:David Seneca；Delphine CHARRIER；Melissa Lassale；Sophie Bodelin
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The subject of the present invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibers comprising at least one copolymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or derivative of crotonic acid and at least one vinyl ester monomer, at least one silicone, the total amount of silicone (s) being at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one pigment, as well as a coloring process using said composition.
    In the field of dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, it is already known to color keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyes or dye precursors for permanent dyes.
    There are essentially three types of hair coloring process: a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and forms the dye by an oxidative condensation process; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not carry out the condensation, oxidative process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists in dyeing keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are colored and coloring molecules with an affinity for keratin fibers. c) temporary coloring which gives rise to a modification of the natural color of the hair which takes from one shampoo to another and which serves to embellish or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
    For the latter type of coloring, it is known to use colored polymers formed by grafting one or more dyes of an azo, triphenylmethane, azine, indoamine or anthraquinone nature onto a polymer chain. These colored polymers are not entirely satisfactory, in particular as regards the uniformity of the coloration obtained, its resistance, without taking into account the problems linked to their manufacture and in particular to their reproducibility.
    Another coloring method is to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorations on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. The use of pigment for coloring keratin fibers is for example described in patent application FR 2 741 530, these compositions, when applied to keratin fibers, have the drawback of transferring, that is to say, say to deposit at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact and in particular a garment or the skin. This results in poor performance of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the composition. In addition, the appearance of these unacceptable traces can dissuade some people from using this type of coloring.
    The compositions for temporary coloring and / or making up the hair can also lead to a touch of the hair which is not natural and / or is not cosmetic, the hair thus colored being able to lack softness and / or flexibility and / or individualization in particular.
    There therefore remains a need to obtain compositions for temporary coloring of keratin materials, in particular of the hair, which have the advantage of forming a deposit resistant to transfer, in particular which does not deposit, at least in part, on the supports with which they are brought into contact, such as the skin (hands and face in particular) and / or clothing. The invention aims to provide compositions which do not degrade keratin fibers, which do not alter their cosmetic properties such as softness and flexibility, keep the hair well individualized, not rough to the touch, while having properties resistance to transfer.
    This object is achieved with the present invention which relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, comprising at least one copolymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or acid derivative. crotonic and at least one vinyl ester monomer, at least one silicone, the total amount of silicone (s) being at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one pigment. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, especially human fibers, such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a composition as defined above.
    By "at least one" means one or more.
    By "comprising a" means "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
    The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, comprising (i) one or more copolymer (s) resulting from the polymerization of at least one acid monomer crotonic or derivative of crotonic acid and at least one vinyl ester monomer, (ii) one or more non-silicone fatty substance (s) liquid, and (iii) one or more pigment (s).
    Coloring composition
    The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
    It has been found that by using the coloring composition according to the invention, it was possible to improve the individualization of the hair, as well as to reduce the transfer. The fibers are also smoother to the touch, softer, more flexible and more easily disentangled. crotonic acid copolymers
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or derivative of crotonic acid and at least one vinyl ester monomer, preferably at least two distinct vinyl ester monomers .
    Preferably, the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer and at least one vinyl ester monomer, preferably at least two separate vinyl ester monomers.
    By “crotonic acid derivative” is preferably meant an ester or an amide of crotonic acid, in particular: - (i) esters of crotonic acid of formula CH3CH = CHCOOR'l with R'1 representing a carbon chain, in particular hydrocarbon chain (alkyl), having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic (aryl, aralkyl or alkylaryl), optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR 'with R' C1-C6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, in particular Cl, F, Br or I); there may be mentioned for example methyl crotonoate, ethyl crotonoate, - (ii) the amides of crotonic acid of formula CH3CH = CHCONR'2R "2 with R'2, R" 2, identical or different, representing the hydrogen or a carbon chain, in particular hydrocarbon (alkyl), having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR 'with R' C1-C6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, in particular Cl, F, Br or I).
    The vinyl ester monomer (s) can be chosen from the compounds of formula CH2 = CH-OCO-R'3 with R'3 representing a carbon chain, in particular hydrocarbon chain, having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR 'with R' C1-C6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, in particular Cl, F, Br or I) ;
    Mention may in particular be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate and vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate, vinyl trifluoroacetate.
    Preferably, the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer and from at least two distinct vinyl ester monomers, said vinyl ester monomers being preferably chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate and vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate, vinyl trifluoroacetate, preferably from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, better among vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate.
    More particularly, the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of crotonic acid, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate, the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of crotonic acid, acetate of vinyl, and vinyl neodecanoate and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular embodiment, the copolymer of the composition according to the invention is a crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer.
    The copolymers according to the invention can optionally comprise other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers. These polymers can optionally be grafted or crosslinked.
    Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products falling into this class are products RESYN® 28-2930 and 28-1310 sold by the company AKZO NOBEL (names INCI VA / crotonates / vinyldecanoate copolymer and VA / crotonates copolymer respectively). We can also cite the LUVISET® CA 66 products sold by the company BASF, ARISTOFLEX® A60 sold by the company CLARIANT (name INCI VA / crotonates copolymer) and MEXOMERE® PW or PAM sold by the company CHIMEX (name INCI VA / vinyl butyl benzoate / crotonates copolymer).
    The total amount of copolymer (s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention can vary from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10 % by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
    silicones
    As indicated above, the composition contains one or more silicones. Preferably the composition contains at least two separate silicones.
    Preferably the composition contains at least one amino silicone.
    The silicones can be solid or liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), volatile or non-volatile.
    The silicones which can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
    Silicones are notably described in detail in the work by Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
    Preferably, the composition contains one or more silicones which are liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
    The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260 ° C. (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5 , such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
    We can cite the products sold under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA. - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with a chemical structure:
    Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane.
    Mention may be made of "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" sold by the company UNION CARBIDE. - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l, l '- (hexa-2, 2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10'6 m2 / s at 25 ° C, such as decamethyltetrasil oxane. Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; mention may be made of the product sold under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.
    Among the non-volatile silicones, there may be mentioned, alone or as a mixture, the polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular the polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydiarylsiloxanes, the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, the silicone gums and resins, as well as the organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or also organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated groups, or polyoxypropylenated. Preferably the non-volatile silicones are chosen from poly dimethyl / methyl siloxane optionally
    oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
    The organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
    Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the SILWET® oils L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or also the (Ci2) -methicone-copolyols, and in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200; - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products sold under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company DOW CORNING; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function; - Acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732. - Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or also of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255". - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; there may be mentioned, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
    The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils sold by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the oils of the MIRASIL® series sold by the company RHODIA; - oils of the 200 series from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
    Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.
    In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
    Products more particularly usable in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such than the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
    The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10'5 to 5.10'2m2 / s at 25 ° C.
    Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; - the silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PHI000 products; - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one dimethicone.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more amino silicones. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
    The weight average molecular weights of these amino silicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25 ° C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μΐ of a 0.5% by weight silicone solution in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
    Preferably, the amino silicone (s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
    wherein x 'and y' are whole numbers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000; b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B): R'aG3-a-Si (OSiG2) „- (OSiGbR'2.b) mO-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, for example methyl, or C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R ', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the groups:
    -N (R ") 2; -N + (R") 3 A-; -NR "-QN (R") 2and-NR "-Q-N + (R") 3 A-, in which R ", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such that fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
    Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G).
    According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):
    in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
    According to a second embodiment, the amino amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:
    in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - RI, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals RI to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
    Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
    The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.3 5: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
    According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below:
    in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - RI, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals RI or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
    Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
    The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1 and preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more particularly is equal to 1: 0.95.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200,000 and even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
    Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
    A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
    A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
    When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included). Thus, one can use according to the invention the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.
    According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F):
    in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and
    preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
    A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example the XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.
    According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (G):
    in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
    The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
    A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.
    c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
    in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-Cis alkyl radical, or C2-Cis alkenyl, for example methyl; - Rf, represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example C1-Cs alkyleneoxy radical linked to Si by an SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
    Such amino silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087. - d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
    in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-Cis alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 atoms carbon, for example methyl;
    - Rf, represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example C1-Cs alkyleneoxy radical linked to Si by an SiC bond; - Rx, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-Cis alkenyl radical, a radical -R6 -NHCOR7; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
    These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. e) amino silicones of formula (J):
    in which: - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is a variant integer from 1 to 5, - m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones, of type (AB) n, A being a block
    polysiloxane and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
    Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas: [- (SiMe2O) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R'-O (C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b-R'-N (H) -R-] or [- (SiMe2O) xSiMe2 - R -N (R ") - R '- O (C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; - R "is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-C12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH (OH) CH2-; preferably R denotes a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH (OH) CH2-; - R ', identical or different , represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R 'denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical , or a radical -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH (OH) CH2-; preferably R 'denotes -CH (CH3) -CH2-,
    The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
    The level of amine is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
    The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
    Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A + by Momentive. g) and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, the composition contains at least one non-amino silicone with the name INCI dimethicone and / or one amino silicone with the name INCI amodimeticone.
    The silicone (s) is (are) present in a total amount of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.15% , more preferably at least 0.3%, more preferably at least 0.5%, better at least 0.75%, more preferably 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The silicone (s) is (are) present in a total amount which can vary from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.15 to 10 % by, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better from 0.75% to 4% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones, the total amount of amino silicone (s) can vary from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.15 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of crotonic acid copolymer (s) or derivative of crotonic acid according to the invention to the total amount of silicone (s) varies from 0.1 to 15, more preferably from 0 , 5 to 10 to better from 1 to 8.
    When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones, preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer (s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention to the total amount of silicone ( s) amine (s) varies from 0.1 to 30, more preferably from 0.5 to 25 to better from 1 to 20.
    pigments
    The composition comprises one or more pigments.
    By pigment is meant particles of any shape, insoluble in the composition where they are present, white or colored.
    The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the encyclopedia of chemical technology of Kirk-Othmer and in the encyclopedia of industrial chemistry of Ullmann.
    They can be natural, natural, or not.
    These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
    The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
    The pigment can be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of ochres such as red ocher (clay (in particular kaolinite) and iron hydroxide (hematite for example), brown ocher (clay (in particular kaolinite) and limonite), yellow ocher (clay (especially kaolinite) and goethite); titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated; zirconium or cerium oxides; zinc, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) , or chromium; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue; metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
    Mention may also be made of alkaline earth metal carbonates (such as calcium, magnesium), silicon dioxide, quartz, as well as any other compound used as an inert filler in cosmetic compositions, as soon as these compounds bring color or white to the composition under the conditions in which they are used.
    The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
    The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo , thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
    One can also use any compound insoluble in the inorganic or organic composition conventional in the field of cosmetics, as soon as these compounds bring color or white to the composition under the conditions in which they are used, for example guanine which according to the refractive index of the composition is a pigment.
    In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040,21100,21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420 , 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives such as 'they are described in the Patent FR 2 679 771. By way of example, mention may also be made of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - YELLOW COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - YELLOW COSMENYL G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - ROUGE COSMENYL R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - BLUE COSMENYL A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - GREEN COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - BLACK COSMENYL R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
    The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
    The organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
    The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
    Among the dyes, carminic acid may be mentioned. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). Mention may be made, as examples of lacquers, of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).
    The pigment can also be a special effect pigment. The term “special effect pigments” is intended to mean pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is not uniform and which varies according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , angles of observation ...). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent classic shade.
    There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter. By way of examples of pigments with special effects, there may be mentioned pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As pearlescent pigments, mention may be made of Cellini nacres sold by Engelhard (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige sold by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona sold by Merck (Mica- TiO2-Fe2O3).
    Mention may also be made of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with reflection silvery in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish orange-green pearl-green in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
    Still by way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
    Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
    Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes).
    One can also consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
    The pigments with special effects can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface condition, allow them to reflect the incident light. This reflection can, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points visible to the naked eye, that is that is, brighter dots that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine.
    The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
    These particles can have various shapes, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.
    The reflecting particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
    When the reflecting particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed for example of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
    When the reflecting particles have a multilayer structure, these can for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflecting material in particular of at least one metal or metallic material . The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
    More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
    The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
    Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
    Still by way of example of reflective particles comprising an inorganic substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
    Particles with a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.
    It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, l steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, oxide of cerium, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and their mixtures.
    By way of example, mention may be made of aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
    Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances which fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by Quantum Dots Corporation.
    Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. In particular, they can be synthesized according to the methods described for example in US 6,225,198 or US 5,990,479, in the publications cited therein, as well as in the following publications:
    Dabboussi B.O. et al "(CdSe) ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites" Journal of phisical chemistrÿ B, vol 101, 1997, pp 9463-9475. and Peng, Xiaogang et al, "Epitaxial Growth of highly Luminescent CdSe / CdS core / shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility" Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol 119, N ° 30, pp 7019-7029.
    The variety of pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as specific optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
    The size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 pm.
    The pigments can be dispersed in the product thanks to a dispersing agent. The dispersing agent is used to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group which is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate, are used. molecular weight of approximately 750g / mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21,000 by the company Avecia, the 2-polygyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or else polyhydroxystearic acid such than that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.
    As other dispersant which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of poly condensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17,000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
    The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be surface treated with an organic agent.
    Thus, the pigments previously treated on the surface which are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechanical-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention. These organic agents can for example be chosen from waxes, for example camauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxy stearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; alkoxy metals; polyethylene; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes ,; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.
    The surface-treated pigments useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
    The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the trade.
    Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered with an organic layer. The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
    The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or the fillers. This method is described in particular in US Patent 4,578,266.
    Preferably, an organic agent linked to the pigments will be used covalently. The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. weight.
    Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a methicone treatment such as the surface treatment SI marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; - a magnesium myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an aluminum dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment, such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the F SOI surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment, such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
    Preferably the pigment is chosen from mineral or mixed mineral-organic pigments.
    The amount of pigment (s) can vary from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.05 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The composition of the invention may contain other colored or coloring species different from the pigments according to the invention such as direct dyes or dye precursors.
    Thickening agent
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one thickening agent, preferably chosen from natural polymers, carboxyvinyl polymers such as homo- or copolymers of acid and / or acrylic ester and / or preferably crosslinked methacrylic, crosslinked thickening polyacrylamides and associative polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain.
    According to the present invention, the term “thickening agent” is understood to mean a compound which increases by its presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 ° C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of ls'1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer or the like ) The thickening agent or agents may be chosen in particular from vinyl carboxy polymers such as crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (carbomer) such as those sold under the names Carbopol by the company Goodrich, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as products sold under the names of Lubrajel or Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides such as the product sold under the name Sepigel 305 by the company Seppic; polysaccharides such as alginates, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and microcrystalline cellulose; natural gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans; or clays such as montmorillonite, bentones and aluminum and magnesium silicates (Veegum).
    According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from polymers of crosslinked acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.
    According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from homopolymers of crosslinked acrylic acid (INCI CARBOMER name). The thickening agent can be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water which may preferably be present in a content ranging from 20% to 98% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
    additives
    The compositions can also contain at least one agent usually used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, fatty substances other than silicones, organic solvents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, filters. UV, peptisants, solubilizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins.
    The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
    Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additives so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the formation of the cladding according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered.
    galenic
    The composition according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, foam, stick, vesicle dispersion, in particular of ionic lipids or not, of two-phase or multiphase lotion. Preferably the composition is in the form of a gel. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand of the application envisaged for the composition.
    Organic solvents
    The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, mention may, for example, be made of lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents.
    When they are present, the organic solvents are present in proportions preferably inclusive of between 0.1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and more preferably between 1 and 30% by weight approximately and again more particularly inclusive between 5% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Process
    The composition described above can be used on dry or wet keratin fibers, as well as on all types of keratin fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permanent, discolored or straightened. The application to the fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush or with fingers.
    Preferably, if the fibers are dried, they are dried, in addition to providing heat, with an air flow.
    During drying, a mechanical action on the locks can be exerted such as combing, brushing, the passage of the fingers. This operation can likewise be carried out once the fibers have dried, naturally or not. The drying step of the process of the invention can be implemented with a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a climazon ...
    When the drying step is carried out with a helmet or a hairdryer, the drying temperature is between 30 and 110 ° C, preferably between 50 and 90 ° C.
    When the drying step is carried out with a straightening iron, the drying temperature is between 110 and 220 ° C, preferably between 140 and 200 ° C.
    EXAMPLES
    Example 1:
    Compositions (g ai / lOOg)
    Protocol
    Composition A is applied to locks of Yack hair at the rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
    The locks are then combed, dried with a hair dryer and then combed again.
    Results: performance "cometic touch"
    The performances in terms of cosmetic feel were evaluated on dried wicks by 5 experts, during a blind test.
    In 100% of the cases, the experts judged that composition A, according to the invention made it possible to obtain smooth and well individualized locks having a pleasant cosmetic feel, in particular a good softness, a good flexibility and an absence of tights.
    Example 2:
    Compositions (g ai / lOOg)
    Protocol
    The compositions A1, B1 or Cl are applied to locks of Yack hair at the rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.
    The locks are dried with a hair dryer and then combed.
    The locks are then rubbed on a white cloth. Results: "non transfer" performance
    The performance in terms of non-transfer was evaluated by 5 experts, during a blind test, which visually assess the amount of pigment present on the white tissue after rubbing.
    In 100% of the cases, the experts judged that the composition Al according to the invention, compared with the compositions Bl and Cl, led to an amount of pigment present on the tissue very much lower than the amount deposited by the compositions Bl and Cl. The composition Al according to the invention therefore has non-transfer properties superior to the comparative compositions B1 and C1.
    权利要求:
    Claims (21)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition comprising (i) one or more copolymer (s) resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or derivative of crotonic acid and at least one vinyl ester monomer, (ii) one or more silicone (s), the total amount of silicone being at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and (iii) one or more pigments.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the or said copolymers result from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer and at least one vinyl ester monomer.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least derivative of crotonic acid is chosen from esters or amides of crotonic acid.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one crotonic acid derivative is chosen from esters of crotonic acid of formula CH3CH = CHCOOR'l with R'1 representing a carbon chain, in particular hydrocarbon (alkyl), having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic (aryl, aralkyl or alkylaryl), optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR 'with R C1-C6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, in particular Cl, F, Br or I) such as methyl crotonoate, ethyl crotonoate.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one crotonic acid derivative is chosen from amides of crotonic acid of formula CH3CH = CHCONR'2R "2 with R'2, R" 2, identical or different, representing hydrogen or a carbon chain, in particular hydrocarbon (alkyl), having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR 'with R' C1-C6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, in particular Cl, F, Br or I).
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the said copolymer (s) result from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or derivative of crotonic acid and from at least two distinct vinyl ester monomers.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the said vinyl ester monomer (s) are chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate and vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate, vinyl trifluoroacetate, preferably from vinyl acetate vinyl, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, better among vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7 characterized in that the said copolymer (s) are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of crotonic acid, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate, the copolymers resulting from the polymerization d crotonic acid, vinyl acetate, and vinyl neodecanoate, and mixtures thereof.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to claims 1 to 8 characterized in that the copolymer is a crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to claims 1 to 9 characterized in that said copolymers further comprise other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters or vinyl ether.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said crotonic acid copolymer resulting from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or derived from crotonic acid and from at least one vinyl ester monomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least two separate silicones.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone with the designation INCI dimethicone.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one amino silicone.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said amino silicone is of the name INCI amodimeticone.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said silicone (s) is (are) present (s) in a total amount of at least at least 0.15%, more preferably at least 0.3%, more preferably at least 0.5%, better at least 0.75%, more preferably 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said silicone (s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, preferably from 0.15 to 10%, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better from 0.75% to 4 % by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer (s) of crotonic acid or derivative of crotonic acid to the total amount of silicone (s) varies from 0 , 1 to 15, more preferably from 0.5 to 10, better from 1 to 8.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a thickening agent, preferably chosen from crosslinked copolymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid, preferably from homopolymers of acid crosslinked acrylic.
    [20" id="c-fr-0020]
    20. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for coloring, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in which the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 19 is applied to said fibers.
    [21" id="c-fr-0021]
    21. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 19 for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the coloring, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    JP2020513029A|2020-04-30|
    CN110913955A|2020-03-24|
    EP3621697A1|2020-03-18|
    JP6931076B2|2021-09-01|
    US20200060960A1|2020-02-27|
    BR112019019391A2|2020-04-14|
    FR3066110B1|2020-06-12|
    WO2018206453A1|2018-11-15|
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    法律状态:
    2018-04-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-11-16| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20181116 |
    2020-04-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-04-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1754194A|FR3066110B1|2017-05-12|2017-05-12|COLORING COMPOSITION BASED ON COPOLYMERS DERIVED FROM THE POLYMERIZATION OF AT LEAST ONE CROTONIC ACID MONOMER OR DERIVATIVE OF CROTONIC ACID AND AT LEAST ONE ESTER MONOMER OF 5 VINYL AND SILICONE, PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS|
    FR1754194|2017-05-12|FR1754194A| FR3066110B1|2017-05-12|2017-05-12|COLORING COMPOSITION BASED ON COPOLYMERS DERIVED FROM THE POLYMERIZATION OF AT LEAST ONE CROTONIC ACID MONOMER OR DERIVATIVE OF CROTONIC ACID AND AT LEAST ONE ESTER MONOMER OF 5 VINYL AND SILICONE, PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS|
    CN201880030820.1A| CN110913955A|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|Dye composition based on a polysiloxane and a copolymer polymerized from at least one crotonic acid monomer and at least one vinyl ester monomer|
    JP2019555650A| JP6931076B2|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|Copolymers and silicone-based dye compositions obtained by polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or crotonic acid derivative and at least one vinyl ester monomer, and methods for dyeing keratin fibers using it.|
    BR112019019391A| BR112019019391A2|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|makeup, process for cosmetic treatment and use of makeup|
    US16/611,787| US20200060960A1|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|Dye composition based on copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one crotonic acid monomer or crotonic acid derivative and of at least one vinyl ester monomer and silicone, and process for dyeing keratin fibers using same|
    PCT/EP2018/061575| WO2018206453A1|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|Dye composition based on copolym polymerization of at least one croto crotonic acid derivative and of at le|
    EP18722524.8A| EP3621697A1|2017-05-12|2018-05-04|Dye composition based on copolym polymerization of at least one croto crotonic acid derivative and of at le|
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